Which is better, steel, polyethylene, or ceramic armor?

One of the questions we frequently get is a variation of, “what type of armor should I get, steel, polyethylene, or ceramic?” The answer, of course, is “it depends.”

Are you looking for armor you can store in a closet or the back of your vehicle for years without worry about if it’s still any good? Or maybe you need something very light because you need to move fast or you work around the water. Perhaps you need armor capable of stopping armor piercing ammunition.

We will never be accused of neglecting to point out that all body armor is a trade off between price, protection, and profile (size, weight, and thickness). This blog will be no different.

Steel plates – great value for tough product

When it comes to a value proposition for hard body armor, you can’t beat steel plates. They can withstand a great deal of abuse, with some reporting shooting steel plates several dozen times with no penetrations.

When protected against the elements, such as with our FragLock™ base or buildup coatings, steel armor can last for decades. If you need durable armor that you can keep in your trunk or store under less than ideal conditions, steel is a great value.

But the trade off with steel is weight and bullet fragmentation. While there have been some improvements in steel technology to offer lighter weight armor solutions, steel will always be heavy. 

Another downside of steel is that there are no viable steel Level IV (armor piercing) solutions. Estimates for a steel armor plate capable of stopping AP rounds put the plates at 0.5-0.75” thick and 15+ pounds per plate, plus a beefed up carrier capable of holding 30+ pounds before the addition of any other equipment.  

Steel is also very prone to bullet fragmentation when the projectile impacts the plate. Generally speaking, fragmentation will fly in a 306” pattern perpendicular to the impact direction. To help mitigate this, we developed FragLock, a proprietary polyurea formulation that not only protects steel from the elements and helps deflect fragmentation away from the user (our base coat), but also helps capture frag when applied as our buildup coat.

Polyethylene – when ounces equal pounds

Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE, or PE for short) is the armor to get if weight is the primary driving factor for your armor protection. PE is neutrally buoyant, meaning it doesn’t sink in water. While it won’t act as a life preserver, PE plates won’t contribute the additional 9-18 pounds of drag you will get with steel or ceramic plates.

PE plates can take a fair amount of abuse, being able to absorb at least six rounds (per NIJ testing protocols). PE armor works by melting and then solidifying around the bullet in almost an instant. PE plates can experience a great deal of backface deformation, so use of a trauma pad behind them would be a wise choice.

But its light weight is not without cost, literally. PE plates are expensive due to the material costs and technology needed to manufacture them. Additionally, they can be susceptible to heat damage if they reach and remain more than 140ºF for any length of time. If you live in the desert southwest and need armor that can sit in your trunk, PE may not be your best option.

Additionally, PE plates won’t stop M855 ‘green tip’ or actual armor piercing ammunition. If you need protection against green tip or similar ammunition, polyethylene is not the choice for you.

Ceramic – armor piercing protection, with a caveat

Lastly, there is ceramic armor. Our Level IV plate is made from an alumina oxide ceramic and has been tested to meet the Level IV threat rating of one round of .30-06 M2 armor piercing ammunition, as well as one round of lesser threat ammunition.

Although ceramic armor is tough and can stop rounds that steel and PE cannot, it is more prone to breakage and cracking than steel or PE. When a bullet hits a ceramic plate, the plate fractures and breaks in order to absorb and redirect the impact energy. 

Because of how they work, ceramic plates need to be handled with a little more care than steel or PE. Dropping ceramic plates on hard surfaces can damage them, as can bouncing around the back of your trunk, especially if they’re under gear, equipment, or heavy items.

Choosing armor is a balance

• Steel armor is affordable, can take a beating and last for decades if protected from the elements, but weight and bullet fragmentation can be an issue.
• PE armor is very light and stops high velocity M193 ammo, but is expensive, prone to damage from extreme heat and won’t stop green tip or armor piercing ammo.
• Ceramic armor sits between steel and PE in terms of price and can stop armor piercing ammunition, but can be prone to damage if mishandled.

Each of the types of hard armor plates has its pros and cons. Choosing the best armor for you depends on your budget, protection requirements, and potential use-cases. Weigh each of your options then purchase accordingly. If you have any questions, contact our customer service group at support@ar500armor.com